Biking and Hiking New Zealand - 04 Coromandel
Table of Contents (click to expand)
- 01 First Days in Auckland
- 02 Whangārei, Waitangi, Gum-diggers
- 03 Cape Reinga, Ninety Mile Beach, Tane Mahuta
- 04 Coromandel Peninsula
- 05 Matamata, Rotorua, Ōpōtiki
- 06 East Cape, Tolaga Bay, Gisborne, Wairoa
- 07 Lake Waikaremoana Track
- 08 Taupo, Palmy, Marlborough Sounds
- 09 Nelson, Golden Bay
- 10 Abel Tasman Track
- 11 Lake Rotoiti, Westcoast, Arthurs Pass
- 12 Mountains and Kea Attack
- 13 Christchurch
- 14 Akaroa to Lake Tekapo
- old versions yet to be converted
- Ocean2Alps
- Otago Central Rail Trail and a real pushbike
- Two Great Walks within one week
- Hollyford Valley and Milford Sound
- Mavora Lakes, Lothlorien and Wanaka
- Alps2Ocean - West Coast
- SuperMario and Rainbow Road
- Wellington
- Art Deco and Gannets
- Rivers and Mountains
- Mt Taranaki
- Volcanoes and Forgotten World Highways
- The Endless Summer
Up early to catch the 7:30 am ferry to Auckland. Transfer to another ferry at 8:45am for a two hour trip to Coromandel with three stops at some islands. The jetty is about 10 km south of Coromandel. Gold was discovered here in 1852 and you can still visit some of the mines. Via Colville I continued north into a dead end: Fletcher Bay. Very isolated area and many pohutukawa trees along turquoise waters. It took me until 16:15, so five hours from Coromandel. 85 km today in five hours and 23 minutes. In the evening I walked the Coromandel Walkway. The area is really fantastic. Everyone is impressed by the 90 Mile Beach and the Kauri forest, but the traffic in the north near Auckland is not for me.


















Coromandel Peninsula
The Coromandel Peninsula, known in Māori as Te Tara-o-te-Ika-a-Māui, is a striking geographical feature on New Zealand's North Island. Stretching 85 kilometers north from the Bay of Plenty, it acts as a natural barrier protecting the Hauraki Gulf and the Firth of Thames from the Pacific Ocean. The peninsula is characterized by its steep, hilly terrain and dense bush, with the Coromandel Range forming its backbone. Despite its proximity to major cities like Auckland, much of the peninsula remains isolated and sparsely populated, with most residents living along the coastal strips.
The Māori name for the peninsula, meaning "the barb of Māui's fish," is rooted in the legend of Māui and the Fish, where the North Island is depicted as a giant fish caught by the demigod Māui. The English name, Coromandel, originates from HMS Coromandel, a Royal Navy ship that visited the area in 1820 to procure kauri spars. The peninsula's rugged landscape is a remnant of the Coromandel Volcanic Zone, with signs of past volcanic activity and geothermal features like the hot springs at Hot Water Beach.
The Coromandel Peninsula's population is concentrated in a few towns, such as Thames and Whitianga, with populations exceeding 5,000. The region is a popular destination for those seeking an alternative lifestyle, attracting many who have left urban centers like Auckland. The area's population swells during the summer holidays, as many Aucklanders own holiday homes there, particularly in towns like Whangamatā, Tairua, and Pauanui.
Historically, the peninsula was significant for Māori, with the Tahanga Quarries at Opito Bay serving as a crucial source of basalt for tool-making during the Māori Archaic period. The region's natural resources and strategic location have long made it an important area for both Māori and European settlers. Today, the Coromandel Peninsula is known for its stunning natural beauty, outdoor recreational opportunities, and vibrant communities.
Despite its development, much of the peninsula remains undeveloped, with large areas covered by the Coromandel Forest Park.









Māui - Te Tara-o-te-Ika-a-Māui
Since the Māori name for Coromandel Peninsula is Te Tara-o-te-Ika-a-Māui, meaning "the barb of Māui's fish," I did some resaerch on that:
Māui is a prominent culture hero and trickster in Polynesian mythology, known for his clever exploits rather than being worshipped as a deity. His tales are widespread across Polynesia, with common themes including stealing fire for humans, fishing up islands, and capturing the Sun to lengthen the days. Representations of Māui vary, depicting him as anything from a handsome young man to an old wise priest. Despite his mischievous nature, his deeds often aimed to improve the lives of his people.
In Māori mythology, Māui is celebrated for his cunning and heroism. Known by names like Māui-tikitiki and Māui-pōtiki, he is famed for fishing up the North Island of New Zealand, Te Ika-a-Māui, using a magical hook. His brothers' chopping of the fish created the island's valleys and mountains. In some traditions, his canoe became the South Island, Te Waka a Māui.
Māui's quest to bring fire to the world involved extinguishing all village fires and seeking the fire goddess Mahuika. He tricked her into giving him her fiery fingernails, which he extinguished one by one. Angered, Mahuika sent fire after him, but Māui called upon Tāwhirimātea to douse it with rain. The last nail became embedded in trees like māhoe, teaching people to create fire by rubbing sticks together.
To slow the sun, Māui and his brothers journeyed east with ropes and a magic jawbone. They caught the sun-god Tama-nui-te-rā in a noose and beat him until he agreed to move more slowly across the sky, providing longer daylight hours for work and leisure.
Māui's final trick involved attempting to gain immortality by entering the goddess Hine-nui-te-pō. Transforming into a worm, he tried to exit through her mouth while she slept. However, laughter from fantails awoke her, and she crushed Māui with her obsidian teeth, leading to his death. This tale serves as a cautionary story against disrespect and hubris.


















The first question I was asked at 6:15 a.m. in Fletcher Bay: "How did the game go?" And we both didn't know. I found out in a cafe in Coromandel: New Zealand had beaten Australia and was the world rugby champion. I saw the full game in thousands of pictures printed in newspapers. It took quite a while to cycle from Fletcher Bay via Colville to Coromandel. Bad roads and hills, so my average speed was not fantastic. But the area I cycled through from Colville to Coromandel via Road 309 was rainforest and jungle and it was worth it. I reached the so-called Hot Water Beach and made a hole in the sand like so many other tourists. Today I got a membership card for a top 10 campground, so I get 10% discount on that campground and also 10% discount on the inter island ferry and whale watching and other things. 110 km in 7.2 hours today.







Whitianga
Whitianga is a town on New Zealand's Coromandel Peninsula, located on Mercury Bay's northeastern coast. With a population of 6,540 as of 2024, it is the second-largest town on the peninsula. The area has been inhabited for over a thousand years, originally settled by Māori explorer Kupe's iwi around 950 AD. The town's original name, Te Whitianga o Kupe, means "Kupe's crossing place."
Whitianga Pā, a significant historical site, is located on the ferry landing side of the river. According to Ngāti Hei history, the pā was once occupied by the chief Hei Turepe and is protected by cliffs and a man-made ditch. Captain James Cook visited the area in 1769 to observe the transit of Mercury, naming the bay Te Whanganui A Hei and the harbour "River of Mangroves."
European settlement began around 1836, with the original settlement on the river's opposite side. The Whitianga stone wharf, built in 1838, is the oldest remaining wharf in New Zealand and served a timber mill and shipbuilding yard. The wharf was renovated in 2015 and is used by the river ferry.
The Whitianga hotel wharf, built in the early 1870s, was replaced in 1932 and removed in 1964. The SS Fingal, launched in 1879, served the area and became part of the Northern Steamship Company fleet in 1881. The weekly service from Auckland ended around 1947, and a marina was approved in the former wharf area in 1992.
Mercury Bay is also notable for the wreck of HMS Buffalo, which played a role in settling the city of Adelaide in South Australia.


Hot Water Beach
Hot Water Beach, located on the east coast of New Zealand's Coromandel Peninsula, is renowned for its unique geothermal activity. Situated approximately 12 kilometers southeast of Whitianga and 175 kilometers from Auckland, the beach attracts around 700,000 visitors annually. Its name derives from underground hot springs that filter up through the sand between the high and low tide marks.
Visitors can dig into the sand within two hours of low tide to create hot water pools, with temperatures reaching up to 64°C. These natural springs are found near the offshore rocks, and many beachgoers bring or rent spades to enjoy this relaxing geothermal experience.


