Biking and Hiking New Zealand - 07 Lake Waikaremoana
Table of Contents (click to expand)
- 01 First Days in Auckland
- 02 Whangārei, Waitangi, Gum-diggers
- 03 Cape Reinga, Ninety Mile Beach, Tane Mahuta
- 04 Coromandel Peninsula
- 05 Matamata, Rotorua, Ōpōtiki
- 06 East Cape, Tolaga Bay, Gisborne, Wairoa
- 07 Lake Waikaremoana Track
- 08 Taupo, Palmy, Marlborough Sounds
- 09 Nelson, Golden Bay
- 10 Abel Tasman Track
- 11 Lake Rotoiti, Westcoast, Arthurs Pass
- 12 Mountains and Kea Attack
- 13 Christchurch
- 14 Akaroa to Lake Tekapo
- old versions yet to be converted
- Ocean2Alps
- Otago Central Rail Trail and a real pushbike
- Two Great Walks within one week
- Hollyford Valley and Milford Sound
- Mavora Lakes, Lothlorien and Wanaka
- Alps2Ocean - West Coast
- SuperMario and Rainbow Road
- Wellington
- Art Deco and Gannets
- Rivers and Mountains
- Mt Taranaki
- Volcanoes and Forgotten World Highways
- The Endless Summer
First day of my little vacation in my vacation. Sunshine, very warm, but most of the time in the forest for now hours it is my first very nice hike. Tomorrow I can swim in the lake. About 12 people in the hut, 36 capacity, mixture of people, old, young tourists and Kiwis. A couple from Christchurch gave me their number. Made a fire at night, wasn't easy with the damp wood. The huts are very basic, no blankets, no equipment for cooking and of course no food, you have to bring all you need for 4 days and have to carry out all rubbish that you produce. There are camp sites too and you may consider them in the high season if snoring of up to 40 people in a room bothers you. There is plenty of fish in the lake to enhance your meals or you go hunting deer for example.




Lake Waikaremoana
Lake Waikaremoana, located in Te Urewera on New Zealand's North Island, is 60 kilometers northwest of Wairoa and covers 54 square kilometers. The name translates to 'sea of rippling waters' in Māori. The lake is within the tribal boundaries of Ngāi Tūhoe, Ngāti Ruapani, and Ngāti Kahungunu ki Te Wairoa. Aniwaniwa, a hamlet on the lakeshore, hosts a Department of Conservation office and serves as a starting point for several walking tracks, including a short walk to Āniwaniwa Falls.
The village of Onepoto is situated on the lake's southern shores, near the old overflow channel and the intake of the Waikaremoana hydroelectric power scheme. Onepoto, meaning 'short beach,' refers to a small bay with a 60-meter-long beach. Lake Waikaremoana is a popular holiday destination for fishing, tramping, and other recreational activities. The Lake Waikaremoana Track, one of New Zealand's Great Walks, is a three- to four-day tramp around half of the lake's circumference, with huts and camping spots available for visitors.
The lake, formed by a massive landslide dam around 2,200 years ago, is the North Island's deepest lake at 256 meters. It is surrounded by mountains with native forests that have never been logged, making it ecologically significant. The area is home to various native bird species and a kiwi conservation program. A possum-hunting initiative helps protect the forest, which features numerous understory species like the crown fern. The lake's molluscs have been studied since the early 1900s.
Lake Waikaremoana has a temperate climate in summer and cool winters, with occasional snowfalls. The region experiences heavy rains, particularly in late winter and early spring, making the weather unpredictable. The lake is less congested with tourists due to the extensive unsealed road required to reach it, offering a more serene experience compared to other Great Walks in New Zealand.









The Legend of Hautnapuhia
A great chief Maahu Tapoa Nui and his whanau (family) lived near a tapu (sacred) spring. At this time there was no great lake, but below Panekire lay a deep valley where streams met an ancient river.
One day Maahu instructed his children to fetch him some drinking water. However, two of the children - Haumapuhia and Te Rangi - did not go as instructed, and those that did,took water from the sacred spring instead of the one designated for everyday use. Upon discovering that the water was from the tapu spring, Maahu turned the offending children into stone.Maahu then turned to Haumapuhia who was again asked to fetch some water, but once more she ignored her father's request. Maahu was so incensed with his daughter's disobedience that he seized Haumapuhia and thrust her head under the spring waters. In a desperate bid to escape she cried out to the gods, who heeded her pleas, turning her human form into a powerful taniwha (supernatural being).Thrashing the earth, Haumapuhia twisted out of Maahu's grasp. Haumapuhia then endeavoured to break out to the east; in attempting this she formed the inlet known as Te Whanganui-a-parua.
Unsuccessful in that attempt, she then turned to the south and tried to escape near present day Onepoto and reach the sea.Although successfully finding her way underground to the Waikaretaheke River, when she surfaced, the sun had risen and the rays falling upon her caused her to be transformed into rock. The rock that is Haumapuhia lies in the Waikaretaheke River, but has since been buried by a landslide.






At 5:45 I got up, had some cereal for breakfast and some tea. Only 2.5 hours to the next via hut with 18 beds. Stayed there, made some tea, went to some waterfalls about 1.5 hours one way. At 13:30 back to the hut. There seems to be a bigger group coming in the evening. Their luggage was already brought here by boat, and three people made a fire for the afternoon. Short swim in the sea, refreshing but very cold, up to 800 meters deep, this lake.






Te Urewera
Te Urewera is a rugged, forested area in New Zealand's North Island, historically home to the Tūhoe Māori tribe, known for advocating Māori sovereignty. It was designated as Te Urewera National Park in 1954 but was disestablished in 2014 following a Waitangi Tribunal settlement. The area now holds environmental personhood status, managed by the Te Urewera Board, which includes Tūhoe and New Zealand Government representatives.
Geographically, Te Urewera extends from Ōhiwa Harbour in the Bay of Plenty to south of Lake Waikaremoana, encompassing the Huiarau and Ikawhenua Ranges. The region is mountainous, with native forests and valleys like Ahikereru and Ruatāhuna. Settlements such as Tāneatua and Ruatoki are located in the lowland areas, while Lake Waikaremoana and Lake Waikareiti lie in the southeast.
Historically, Te Urewera remained under Māori control due to its isolation and dense forests. The Urewera District Native Reserve was established in the late 19th century, but the Crown later acquired much of the land. The Waitangi Tribunal found that the Crown treated Tūhoe unfairly, leading to a settlement in 2013, granting Tūhoe financial and cultural redress and co-governance of Te Urewera.
Te Urewera now has legal personhood, owning itself and meeting the IUCN criteria for a Category II National Park. The Te Urewera Board, comprising Tūhoe and Crown members, administers the area. Notable board members include former Prime Minister Jim Bolger and sustainable tourism consultant Dave Bamford.
The region is home to all North Island native-forest bird species except the weka, with the crown fern as a common understory plant. The area's ecological significance is preserved under its new legal status, ensuring protection and sustainable management of its natural resources.
The name Te Urewera is a Māori phrase meaning "The Burnt Penis"







I did not meet a single person on my way between 6:30 am and 2:00 pm. Yesterday's group was the senior management team of a food company in Gisborne. Didn't drink any alcohol, but still snored like champions. I was in another room with four women and in the evening people I knew from the Mokau campsite came. A lot of up and down along the sea, along the lake and after three days of walking in the forest I am looking forward to my bike again. But I want to do the Tasman National Park, maybe two or three days. It will be different from today. A little swim in the lake again, about 14°C. Tomorrow at 2 pm the water taxi will pick us up. There was an avalanche at the end of the track. The bridge at the end is closed.













Last day of my walk. Rain on the way back. The water taxi was quite bumpy because of the strong wind. We got some coffee and a blanket and it was quite cold on the lake. Later at camp, some hail and snow and rain, but a hot shower and lots of tea and chips and pasta with sauce lifted the spirits.
Lake Waikaremoana Great Walk
The Lake Waikaremoana Great Walk is a 44-kilometer hiking trail that traces the southern and western shores of Lake Waikaremoana in New Zealand's North Island. The track meanders through diverse forests and grasslands, frequently offering scenic views of the lake. Recognized as one of New Zealand's Great Walks, it is situated in what was once Te Urewera National Park.
The trail begins at Onepoto and Hopuruahine, located on the southern and northern ends of the lake, respectively. Hikers typically spend 3 to 4 days completing the route.
The path traverses several sections of private land and skirts the Puketukutuku Peninsula Kiwi Refuge.
| Place | Distance | Time | Description |
|---|---|---|---|
| Onepoto | 8.8 km | 5 hours | Passing the former Armed Constabulary Redoubt near the start of the trail, the track then climbs steeply up onto Panekire Bluff. The bluffs form part of the southern shore, and provide views over the expanse of the lake. Following the ridge, the trail has several sharp dips and climbs. Panekire Hut sits in a small clearing next to the Panekire Trig point (1180 m), at the top of the cliffline, with views of the lake. |
| Panekire Hut | |||
| 7.6 km | 3–4 hours | The trail from Panekire Hut goes west, climbing and descending over the Panekire Range, before eventually descending precipitously into much taller and wetter forest. At the end of the descent lies Waiopaoa Hut and Campsite, on the edge of the Waiopaoa Inlet part of the lake. | |
| Waiopaoa Hut and Campsite | |||
| 3.6 km | 1.5 hours | Passes grassland, and forest, usually 10–20 m from the lakeshore. Just before Korokoro campsite, there is a turnoff up Korokoro river, to Korokoro Falls which takes about 30 minutes each way. | |
| Korokoro Campsite | |||
| 6.8 km | 2.5 hours | This section has a very large number of meanders in the trail, as it follows the lakeside, and toward the Maraunui Campsite, follows a river upstream, before crossing it, and returning downstream. | |
| Maraunui Campsite | |||
| 1.7 km | 0.5 hours | A brief walk through grassland and over a small ridge. | |
| Marauiti Hut and Campsite | |||
| 6.2 km | 2 hours | Apart from a brief climb over a small peninsula, the trail follows the shoreline as it meanders northeast. | |
| Waiharuru Hut and Campsite | |||
| 2.1 km | 1.5 hours | Climbing fairly steeply, the trail crosses the neck of the Puketukutuku Peninsula, touching the edge of the Kiwi Reserve area. Descending the other side of the peninsula, the trail arrives at the Tapuaenui Campsite, back on the lake shore. | |
| Tapuaenui Campsite | |||
| 3.2 km | 1 hour | Again following the shore, the trail meanders along, through forest, before arriving at Whanganui Hut. | |
| Whanganui Hut | |||
| 2.7 km | 0.75 hours | After a short walk through the forest, the trail arrives at the beach where water taxis pick up and set down passengers (they use the rocks on the east end of the beach). Sandflies are a problem whilst waiting here. | |
| Water Taxi Stop | |||
| 1.25 hours | |||
| Hopuruahine |