Biking and Hiking New Zealand - 06 East Cape

Thursday, November 5, 2015

It will be lonely from here on. Landed at Te Araroa. In the afternoon there was a very strong wind from the south. I hope it will stop tomorrow because tomorrow I have to cycle all day south.

Tōrere

Tōrere is a small coastal settlement in New Zealand's Bay of Plenty Region, located about 20 km northeast of Ōpōtiki. It is the ancestral home of the Ngāitai people, with a rich history linked to the Tainui migratory waka. The area is named after Tōrere-nui-ā-rua, the eldest child of Hoturoa, who settled there after escaping advances from a tohunga. The descendants of Tōrere and her husband Manaakiao became known as Ngāitai.

Tōrere features a marae that includes the Holy Trinity Memorial Church, adorned with carved pillars, tukutuku panels, and stained-glass windows. The church's World War II Roll of Honour lists nearly 40 local men who served in the Māori Battalion, including eight who were killed in action.

Education in Tōrere is provided by Te Kura o Torere, a co-educational Māori immersion primary school with a roll of 26 students as of November 2024. Established in 1878, the school has served various community functions over the years and became a Māori immersion school in 2001. It is notable for its carved gateway, reflecting the area's cultural heritage.

Omaio

Omaio is a coastal township in New Zealand's Ōpōtiki District, Bay of Plenty Region. Traditionally, the area was used for sheep and beef farming, but recent efforts have focused on transitioning to kiwifruit farming, with a pilot farm funded in 2017. The National Institute of Water and Atmospheric Research has tested climate-resilient crops in Omaio due to the impacts of climate change, including fewer frosts and more extreme weather.

In June 2019, Omaio hosted the historic signing of a Treaty of Waitangi settlement agreement between Te Whānau-ā-Apanui and the New Zealand Government. The settlement reflects the area's cultural significance and the ongoing relationship between the iwi and the Crown.

Omaio is home to three marae belonging to Te Whānau-ā-Apanui: Ōmāio Marae, Ōtūwhare Marae, and Whitianga Marae, each serving different hapū. In 2020, the government allocated funds from the Provincial Growth Fund to upgrade these marae, creating local jobs.

Education in Omaio is provided by Te Kura o Te Whānau-a-Apanui, a co-educational Māori language immersion school for Year 1 to 13 students. Established in 2016, the school resulted from the merger of three local schools, emphasizing the community's commitment to Māori education and culture.

Friday, November 6, 2015

Two weeks on the bike now and compared to the first day the hills are easier for me now. I reached Tolaga Bay just in time before the big rain started. It was really brutal, so I even had to push my bike on one of the first hills because the wind came from the side and I couldn't stay on the bike with the limited speed. I reached Te Puia Springs for my first coffee, and that was at noon, and I was on the bike at seven in the morning. Lots of hills, lots of horses and very small villages today. Fewer views of the sea, and the road went more through the forest, so half of Mount Hikurangi was shrouded in fog. The logging trucks on the road come very close to you when they overtake you, and when the wind is strong, this is not ideal. 140 km in eight hours today and a little more than 2000 km after two weeks on the road.

Tokomaru Bay

Tokomaru Bay is a small beachside community on New Zealand's East Coast, 91 km north of Gisborne. Originally known as Toka-a-Namu, the area is home to the Te Whanau a Ruataupare and Te Whānau a Te Aotawarirangi hapu. The bay, once a stop for passenger ships, has a history of European settlement, including a whaling station and missionary visits in 1838 that introduced Christianity.

The region has long been a Māori stronghold, with historical fortifications at Te Mawhai during the 1860s conflicts involving Ngāti Porou. Today, Tokomaru Bay's economy relies on agriculture, forestry, and tourism, with a predominantly Māori population. The bay occasionally hosts southern right whales, which come to calve or rest.

Saturday, November 7, 2015

In the morning, cloudy and very wet to Gisborne. Stopped in Gisborne to do some shopping, some soup, some nuts. 55 km from Gisborne to Morere Hot Springs. Very nice campground there, in the middle of nowhere, and just opposite the hot springs with hot pots in the middle of a jungle. After seven minutes through the jungle, some cold, warm and hot pots changed frequently. Nice conversations with Kiwis about various topics. Tomorrow about 40 km to my Wairoa and hopefully I can make my booking for the Lake Waikeremona Track tomorrow. 118.7 km in 6 hours and 42 minutes.

Tolaga Bay

Tolaga Bay, known as Uawa-nui-a-Ruamatua in Maori, has been inhabited since the 13th century, with Te Aitanga-a-Hauiti as the major iwi since the 15th century. European contact began with James Cook's visit in 1769, leading to European settlement and the development of a trading post focused on flax and whaling. Farming became significant after sheep were introduced in 1863, necessitating efficient transport for produce. Initially, small wharfs and surf landing services were used, but as trade grew, the Hauiti Wharf was built in the early 1900s.

The Tolaga Bay Wharf, constructed between 1925 and 1929, was a significant engineering feat, enabling direct loading from motorized wagons to ships. However, its operation was affected by the Great Depression, WWII, and improved road transport, leading to its decline and closure to shipping by 1968.

Post-closure, the Wharf became a tourist attraction. Concerns over its deterioration led to the formation of the Tolaga Bay Save the Wharf Charitable Trust in 1999, aiming to restore the Wharf despite an engineering assessment deeming full restoration impractical. The Trust, in partnership with the Gisborne District Council, began efforts to preserve this community and heritage icon.

Gisborne

Gisborne, a city in northeastern New Zealand, is the largest settlement in the Gisborne District with a population of 38,800 as of June 2024. Originally known as Tūranga, it was renamed Gisborne in 1870 to honor Colonial Secretary William Gisborne and avoid confusion with Tauranga. The area, known in Māori as Tūranganui-a-Kiwa, has been inhabited for over 700 years by tribes such as Te Whānau-a-Kai and Rongowhakaata, descending from voyagers of waka like Tākitimu and Horouta.

Captain James Cook made his first New Zealand landing at Gisborne's Kaiti Beach in 1769, marking the beginning of European settlement. Early European traders and missionaries established the town in the 1830s, with the government purchasing land for a town site in 1868. Gisborne's first public school and newspaper were established in the early 1870s, and a town council was formed in 1877. The city is historically significant for its Māori heritage and as the site of Cook's landing.

Mōrere

Mōrere is a lightly populated region in New Zealand, known for the Morere Hot Springs and the Morere Springs Scenic Reserve, which features trails through a habitat of nikau palms. Located in the Hawkes Bay area on the North Island, it offers self-contained accommodation at the Morere Hot Springs Lodge.

Sunday, November 8, 2015

The booking for the next four days of the Lake Waikeremona Track was successful. I'm looking forward to it. 114.6 km in six hours and 20 minutes today. The way up to Lake Waikeremona was a bit tiring on unpaved roads. Weather fantastic.

Wairoa

Wairoa is the largest town in the Wairoa District and the northernmost town in the Hawke's Bay region on New Zealand's North Island. Situated on the northern shore of Hawke Bay at the mouth of the Wairoa River, it is close to Māhia Peninsula and accessible via State Highway 2. The town is notable for its significant Māori population, with 62.29% identifying as Māori, making it one of three towns in New Zealand where Māori outnumber other ethnicities. Originally a Māori settlement, Wairoa's history is deeply connected to the ancestral waka Tākitimu, which traveled up the Wairoa River. The river, important for transport and food, is linked to local Māori legends involving taniwha. Early European settlement began with a whaling station and trading post in 1839. The town, initially named Clyde, played a role during the New Zealand Wars and was officially established on land purchased by the government in 1864. In the 20th century, Wairoa saw significant developments, including the establishment of the Wairoa Borough Council in 1909 and the completion of the Napier to Wairoa railway line in 1937. The railway's completion led to a decline in port usage. The town faced challenges such as the 1931 Hawke's Bay earthquake and unsolved murders in the 1940s. Cyclone Bola in 1988 caused severe flooding and damage, leading to the construction of a new bridge opened by Queen Elizabeth II in 1990.

Lake Waikaremoana

Lake Waikaremoana, located in Te Urewera on New Zealand's North Island, is 60 kilometers northwest of Wairoa and covers 54 square kilometers. The name translates to 'sea of rippling waters' in Māori. The lake is within the tribal boundaries of Ngāi Tūhoe, Ngāti Ruapani, and Ngāti Kahungunu ki Te Wairoa. Aniwaniwa, a hamlet on the lakeshore, hosts a Department of Conservation office and serves as a starting point for several walking tracks, including a short walk to Āniwaniwa Falls.

The village of Onepoto is situated on the lake's southern shores, near the old overflow channel and the intake of the Waikaremoana hydroelectric power scheme. Onepoto, meaning 'short beach,' refers to a small bay with a 60-meter-long beach. Lake Waikaremoana is a popular holiday destination for fishing, tramping, and other recreational activities. The Lake Waikaremoana Track, one of New Zealand's Great Walks, is a three- to four-day tramp around half of the lake's circumference, with huts and camping spots available for visitors.

The lake, formed by a massive landslide dam around 2,200 years ago, is the North Island's deepest lake at 256 meters. It is surrounded by mountains with native forests that have never been logged, making it ecologically significant. The area is home to various native bird species and a kiwi conservation program. A possum-hunting initiative helps protect the forest, which features numerous understory species like the crown fern. The lake's molluscs have been studied since the early 1900s.

Lake Waikaremoana has a temperate climate in summer and cool winters, with occasional snowfalls. The region experiences heavy rains, particularly in late winter and early spring, making the weather unpredictable. The lake is less congested with tourists due to the extensive unsealed road required to reach it, offering a more serene experience compared to other Great Walks in New Zealand.

...next chapter.